当白鹅浮水引吭时，7岁的骆宾王随口吟诵出千古名句“白毛浮绿水，红掌拨清波”。
当白鹅来到吴山镇，它们飞上餐桌，变成一道道美食，点缀在吴山的四五十家店中。
刚出炉的吴山贡鹅 Newly braised Wushan Gong'e Goose
Whenseeing a gaggling goose swim, the then seven-year-old Luo Binwang (638—684) recited casually, “in water a white goose floats,with red webs making ripples". The verse has been popular over one thousand years, even up to today. In Wushan Town, white goose is a delicacy served at dining tables. Almost 50 restaurants there offer braised goose.
从合肥出发，向东北而行，40 公里后，便到吴山镇，遍地的“吴山贡鹅”4 个大字映入眼帘。看着看着，空气中飘来一股股浓浓的香气，那是肉香和草木香的味觉道场。抬头望去，只见飞檐翘角，雕栏含香，精致的门头，让人恍如穿越到了唐末五代十国。彼时，吴国的创立者杨行密被唐昭宗封为吴王。他为官清廉，人民安居乐业。当地百姓敬仰，以当地白鹅配上美味佐料，制成卤鹅献给吴王，吴王食之大悦，说：“此鹅堪称‘贡品’。”从此，“吴山贡鹅”名扬天下。
在吴山贡鹅的后厨里，一排大锅正在卤制，只见热气腾腾，汤汁翻滚，肉色鲜艳，厨师忙着给鹅肉翻身，颠勺往返于大锅之间。这时候，鹅肉将熟，你只得控制住嘴巴，用意念吃上一只，像极了小时候过年，大人炸麻花、丸子时，你流下口水，踱来踱去，却只能等大人们将麻花和丸子敬过先人后，才能大快朵颐。
制作贡鹅 Making Wushan Gong'e Goose
When strolling in Wushan Town,Changfeng County, Hefei, you can see Wushan Gong'e Goose (tribute goose) on sign boards almost everywhere. The upturned cornices, carved railings and exquisitely decorated facades of restaurants make you feel as if you were back to the late Tang Dynasty or the period of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms.
At that time, Yang Xingmi, founder of the Wu Kingdom later, had been made King of Wu by Emperor Zhaozong of the Tang Dynasty.
He kept his governance clean and made people live and work in peace and contentment. To express their respect, local people presented him local goose braised with special condiments. The king was so pleased after tasting the food that he said, "I have been poor since my childhood, and I dare not forget my past suffering. This food is so delicious and it can be rated as tribute to emperor". Ever since then, the goose cooked in Wushan has been known as a tribute far and near.
In the kitchen of a restaurant, a row of big woks are in braising the goose. The soup is boiling, the meat alluring, and the smell inviting. Moving busily between the cooking cauldrons, chefs turn the goose over.
制作贡鹅的部分调料 Some spices for making Wushan Gong'e Goose
鹅肉刚出锅时，表皮饱含汤汁和油，色泽金黄，冒着热气，让人食欲大振。待鹅肉放凉，可切一只或者半只鹅带回家，配上三大件——鹅头、鹅翅、鹅爪，还有五小件——鹅心、鹅肝、鹅舌、鹅肠、鹅胗，约上三两好友闲坐，喝着小酒，吃着鹅肉，啃着翅膀，推杯换盏，好不快哉。
也可以在店里吃，点个全鹅宴。其配套佳肴，也是以浓香味美的鹅汤做配料。鹅肉色泽清爽，吃起来肉质细嫩，肥而不腻，咸香适中，手不油，嘴不腻，让人回味无穷。爱啃膀子爪子的伙伴儿，更是嘴不停歇，连啃几只不在话下。不仅是味美，鹅肉还有健脾养胃、清热解毒等功效。爱好美食的人们，偏要吃出趣味来，如吃鹅爪是“脚踏实地”，吃鹅翅要“展翅高飞”，最后吃鹅头方能“独占鳌头”。饭桌上，你要是说出这么一番话，想必又要加菜了。
贡鹅好吃，自然生意红火。据了解，在吴山镇，从事贡鹅卤制的餐饮店有 40 多家，在合肥城内更多。吴山贡鹅还走出合肥，在省内及江浙一带时有见到。现代的真空包装快递业务，更是让吴山贡鹅远销全国各地。
秘制香料 老卤提香 Special spices and special brine that enrich the flavor
Just after being taken out of the wok, the goose skin is full of broth and oil, golden in color, steaming, and appetizing. When it is cool, you may take home one or a half for your family, or you may share the delicacy with some friends over a few cups of baijiu.That would be very enjoyable.
You may also enjoy a feast with the food made of a whole goose in a restaurant, where even other matching courses are made with the thick and nice- smelling goose broth. The braised goose meat is light in color and tender in texture, with a lingering aftertaste. In addition to the delectable taste, people say, goose meat nourishes the spleen and stomach, makes people strong, and even has the function of cooling down internal heat.
Thanks to the scrumptious taste, the business is prosperous.According to statistics, there are more than 40 restaurants engaged in braised goose in Wushan Town, more in Hefei. At the same time, the business spreads out of Hefei and beyond Anhui to Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Modern vacuum packaging and express delivery facilitate the business to reach every corner of the country.
文字：殷艳萍
图片：张忠建 杨道文 王洁 张倩莹
