“新安江水碧悠悠,两岸人家散若舟,几夜屯溪桥下梦,断肠春色似扬州”,这是作家郁达夫夜泊屯溪老河街时写下的诗句。如果郁达夫可以穿越的话,来到今日涅槃一新的屯溪河街,我想他一定会有更多的诗文。
屯溪河街 The new riverside street in Tunxi
漫步江畔,虽不见郁达夫当年夜宿过的江畔轻舟,但是那“碧悠悠”的“新安江水”还在日夜奔流,更重要的是还有原址重建的屯溪老大桥、屯浦码头的摆渡及屯溪河街。
The opening of the old riverside street to business added splendid color to Tunxi, which is an important place south of the Yangtze in Anhui. The ever flowing Xin'an River still remembers the mixed feelings of the old-day Hui merchants when they were leaving their hometown for business. Now it sees another scene on the Tunpu Dock near the renewed riverside street: on the stone steps leading to the river and near the water-front buildings, naive and innocent kids are romping about and residents strolling leisurely,displaying an atmosphere of happiness, comfort and peacefulness.
夜晚的屯溪河街 The riverside street at night, Tunxi
差不多 90 年前,屯溪,这座古朴的皖南小镇,通往外地的渠道最便捷的还是水路。前世不修,生在徽州,十三四岁,往外一丢。多少少年怀揣梦想外出打拼,江水见证了离愁别绪;今日屯溪河街的屯浦码头却是另一番景象,亲水石阶上、迎江阁楼旁,有少儿不知愁滋味的顽童嬉戏追闹,更有市民在这里漫步,聊聊家长里短,街头巷角趣闻轶事。廊亭内有文艺爱好者吹拉弹唱,老人们在下棋打牌,时光里浸满欢笑、惬意、舒心与岁月静好。
如果说,白天的屯溪河街是喧闹的、热烈的、匆忙的,那么,夜晚的屯溪河街则更多了一份恬静与诗意。流光溢彩的灯光照耀着飞檐、马头墙,一幢幢徽派特色的建筑在彩灯下,别有意蕴。用现代的科技手段将精美的故事投影在幕布上,时光的留声机吱呀吱呀地转动,静静地、悠悠地讲述着老徽州一个又一个动人的故事,讲给现代人听,讲给听得懂的人,是古老和现代的对话,是古老和现代的穿梭。
河街上老建筑 Time-honored buildings along the riverside street
If we say the street is noisy in the daytime, then it is tranquil and poetic at night: the cornices and "horse-head"walls (similar to corbie gables for fire protection) in the colorful lighting and the Hui-style buildings in neon decoration register different appeal; projecting touching stories on the screen with modern sci-tech means is novel and trendy.
The breeze at night in early autumn is gentle and soft. Standing by the railings along the river, we can see the broadness of the calmly flowing Xin'an, the lights inf the tall buildings and the heavy traffic on the street across the river, and we can hear the ship whistles and the "chorus of pots and pans" when people prepare food.
初秋的夜晚微风徐徐。倚靠栏边,望新安江水面平静开阔,对岸高楼大厦万家灯火,车水马龙,汽笛声此起彼伏,锅碗瓢盆欢唱。
夜色下,席地而坐、露营休闲,耳畔新安江水轻轻流淌,身边家人朋友举头赏月。有轻快的音乐、有畅聊的好友、有啤酒佳肴作伴,朋友们相聚一起度过一个个美妙的夜晚。
河街一景 A scene of the riverside street
如果说素有“清明上河图”美誉的屯溪老街带给你的是古老的徽州文化的话,那么毗邻老街而建的屯溪河街,带给你的则是现代的、青春的、活力的新徽州印象。这里有 YE 问市集,非遗传承人轮番展示匠人风采;这里有曼妙女子汉服表演,徽州三雕热闹呈现;这里有非遗板凳龙和大刀舞走向世界,COSPLAY 动漫热情互动;这里有山水人文入街来,绘就屯溪新画卷。
Wandering in the street, what impress us is the new image of Huizhou full of modernity, youthfulness and vitality. Here is a YE Wen Market where intangible cultural heritage inheritors take turns to show their skills and craftsmanship, graceful young ladies stage Han-style clothes performance, and street peddlers are busy with their three kinds of traditional business. Here we can also appreciate the bench dragon dance and the broadsword dance – both are on UNESCO's World Intangible Cultural Heritages List, or we can interact with the enthusiastic COSPLAY performers. This street, featuring landscape, history and culture, presents us a new picture of Huizhou.
未名楼WeimingPavilion(thepavilionfacingtheXin'anRiver)
屯溪河街上聚集了诸多知名的餐饮、娱乐连锁店,包括国际品牌。更有亲子项目文创产品加大了体验度,丰富了河街的内涵,成为了今日屯溪集逛街、休闲、吃饭、游乐于一体的现代商业街,给市民和游客又一处绝佳的胜地。
此情此景,令人诗情大发,醉倒在屯溪河街的光影与风韵里。
游客如织 Crowded visitors
There are many famous catering and entertainment chain stores in the street, as well as cultural and creative programs, and activities for family tours, which enrich the tour experience and the connotation of the riverside street, enable the street in Tunxi to be a real modern commercial venue integrated with the functions of street sightseeing, relaxation, dining and recreation, and offer local people and visitors another wonderful resort.
文字:江志伟 图片:吴宽胜 施亚磊 沈光洪 周冰