古城濉溪依濉水溪河,昔时,四座城门巍然,城中百姓安居,商业繁荣。
百年沧桑,人间换了模样。濉溪古城里,一条老街、复建的凝曦门,留住了旧时光。
凝曦门与水流潺湲的老濉河隔路相望,迎接每一个日出。当晨光越过高大的门楼洒在老街的青石板上,左右两边的店铺陆续开门营业。
濉溪古城街景
Street View of Old Suixi
青石板是老街最深刻的历史记忆。人来人往,踏石留痕,许多石板已被磨平,有一段路面在战争中被流弹炸碎,还有的石面上印着车辙。几百年的光阴流转,如果穿布鞋,慢慢走。当柔软的鞋底踩过斑驳的路面,轻轻唤醒过往如三月桃花,明艳艳地盛开在褪了朱红的木格窗边。推开被风雨剥蚀的木门,吱呀声如同深情的念白,在幽长的小巷里低回。
如果你想寻一方幽静,可以坐在路边的茶室里,泡一壶茶,看阳光穿过风穿过弄堂,落在色彩热闹的棉质花布上。义和祥银店的老银匠正在加工镯子,开片,打条,錾花……叮叮当当的声音在茶叶的香气里弥散。
沿街“古铺”林立
Ancient Shops along the Street
The ancient city of Suixi is by the riverSuishui. Once upon a time, its four gatesstood tall, its people lived in peace and its commerce prospered.
Hundreds of years of vicissitudes of life, the world totally changed. But an old street and the restored Ningxi Gate retained the old time.
The Ningxi Gate, together with the slowlyflowing Old Suihe River, greets every sunrise. As the morning light poured overthe tall gatehouse onto the stone paths, shops on both sides began to open.
市民夜游石板街
night touring
如果你喜欢看市井繁华,就在傍晚的时候来。结束了一天的工作,一家老小相携或三五友人结伴,踏着暮色到老街吃水煎包,喝油茶。晚上的老街充满烟火气,除了最负盛名的包子油茶鳝丝汤,还有南坪杠子馍、临涣培乳肉、八号桥糕点……年轻人喜欢的奶茶、烧烤、炸串摊前更是热火朝天。
饭后再逛一逛店铺,拍一拍夜景。走过华胜门、永安门、永宁门,一路“灯市光相射”,“人影参差,满路飘香麝”。在璀璨灯火里,你能看到唐时长安放夜的盛景,也能感受到北宋汴京的安闲气象。
老街油茶
Old street oil-tea
老街壮馍
Famous Super Pancake in the Old Street
The blue flagstones may be the most impressive part of the old streets. The soft soles of shoes stepping on it will gently wakesup the past memories, just like the peach blossoms bloomfully besides the faded vermilion wooden lattice window. If youpush the wooden door open, the creaking of the door is like anaffectionate whisper, echoing in the long and deep lane.
If you want peace and quietness, just sit in a roadsideteahouse, brew a pot of tea, and watch the sunshine shinesthrough the lane on on the colorful cotton cloth with the breeze.The old silversmith in Yihexiang Silver Shop is processingbracelets, and the sound of Jingling spread with the aroma ofthe herbal medicine.
若在春节期间,还会有各种民俗踩街活动,央视曾直播过老街过大年。一条街上满满当当,吃喝玩乐,应有尽有。那一帧帧年味十足的画面解开了一代人记忆的封印,满足了人们对过年的想象。
水巷、干巷、盐店巷、建设巷、琵琶巷(九道弯)、当典巷、南阁巷、平安里巷。每一道巷子都有别名,每个名字都是一个故事。
银器加工、香包制作、剪纸泥塑、染坊拓片……每一处都能让你盘桓半日而不舍得离开。
新四军旧址纪念馆、古城旧影馆、金陵会馆,可以打捞故事。原址重建的古睢书院则给老街增添了浓厚的文化氛围。
老街长巷,烟火人间。苔藓沁色的巷陌里写满光阴的故事,青砖黛瓦的屋檐下有你想寻找的儿时灯火。
古城游人放河灯
Ancient City Tourists Setting off River Lamps
At nightfall, you can go to the old street to have fried stuffed bun andtasty oily soup. The old street at night is full of visitors and diners, andthey come for the most famous steamed stuffed bun, tasty oily soup,eel slice soup, Nanping steamed bun, Linhuan pork, No. Eight Bridgecakes, Flagstone Street dog meat... Also, there are milk tea, barbecue,and fried kebabs available, which are popular among young people.
After dinner, you can shop around and take pictures of the nightscene. Walking all the way through the Huasheng Gate, Yongan Gate,Yongning gate, you can enjoy the lights and aroma. In the bright lights,you can see the Chang'an night scene in Tang Dynasty, and feel theleisure atmosphere in Bianjing in Northern Song Dynasty.
Oh the worldly old flagstone streets! There are stories of time hidden inthe mossy lane, and childhood lights under the eaves of green bricksand tiles.
文字:邹荣
图片:王文 李光明
翻译:刘畅
播音:赵蔚青
编辑:刘润宇
校对:刘军